Problem Solved - Finally, Paint Coatings for Every Job
The right kind of coating is vital. If you select the wrong paint, it won't matter how much effort and money you spend on your project. Too many perfectly great paint jobs deteriorate too early because the wrong primer and paint were used.
A dependable guideline is to match the existing coating. If you're painting or staining over a latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have a variety of choices if the surface is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider local climate, maintenance, and strength to find the best covering for the job.
No-Fuss Painting Using Primers
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It establishes how well the finish is protected and exactly how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers messes up painters about nearly as much as which primers to work with. Basically, you will need to use a primer if you are covering a fresh or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more even. About the only time you don't need to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To make sure of compatibility, choose a product that's part of your paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top layer manufactured by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to cope with reading the fine print, ask to read the spec, or data sheet, on a particular primer. If a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you will ever need and you might need help translating a few of the terms and specifications.
Primers form a solid foundation for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all or any types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a fresh or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top coats ends up flaking off much sooner than you would expect. Even though you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of thinking that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.
Usually in one coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will need a second coat of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one is enough. The house pictured below serves as an example of a project where two layers of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to give it an even base for the finish coats. Some climates almost demand another coating of primer. I've heard about one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his work last. If you live close to ocean water, I would recommend that you consider doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might feel that a primer would smooth a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of trim it always feels harsh. That's because primer makes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for layer. (Here's a tip: If you tint your primer the color of the finish coat, it is possible to speed up the painting process by lowering the amount of top coats needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it is also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)
Take The Headache Out of Primers For Interior Walls and Ceilings
I would recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior problem areas, including the laundry room and bathroom, that need a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter areas of the house, although there are great latex primers that seal about as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the sleeping rooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new buildings have sufficient vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top layer over latex primer.
Older houses call for room-by-room decisions on what primer to work with. If the house does not have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will need a primer that seals the surfaces and keeps moisture content from getting between your surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers would be the answer to priming wet rooms in the house. These quick drying primers help condition areas with water, smoke, and tannin spots, and they can be recoated very quickly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all the benefits of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also functions as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it will maintain a consistant sheen over primer. You can guarantee compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
With regards to walls, remember that plaster and drywall will vary. Plaster is highly alkaline, in particular when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it is not properly sealed. There are numerous primers you may use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coat and finish you've planned.
Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I understand that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any type of top layer, but old patterns are hard to break.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps level over any sanding markings or roughness.
Priming Solution For Interior Wood
When selecting primer, you should think about the type and condition of the surface, the type of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the kind of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Frequently I prime interior wood trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There's also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, such as the high moisture common in bathing rooms and kitchens, may require a breathable latex primer if you can't prime all over the wood. If you can completely prime the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect most of the wood trim from dampness. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a professional if your job has many different variables
No-Fuss Priming For Exteriors
Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still would rather use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the house has no major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which often means that it is new), particularly if I had access to the siding and wood trim before it is attached to the building. It's always better to seal all over the wood (however, not the ends) to give each piece its vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the lumber has air-dried for a few months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a mild detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are quite porous, so you might need to wait a day or two to let them dry out. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top coatings. Any staining that happens after that can usually be washed off with special timber cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a particular challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. In the event the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to eliminate all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially produced hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top layer, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Primers For Metals Applications
Every steel should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough contact with the area. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to eliminate, and could need more than simply thinner. Check with your paint store if you need to be sure a primer will continue to work on new galvanized metal surfaces.
You can find primers for every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to completely remove if you don't sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back under an unsealed surface or the incorrect primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from contact with air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller jobs like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've experienced good luck using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be coated with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a specific primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.
As with any coating, the more time the primer is able to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much whatsoever and stay right where they're painted, for good or for bad. A clean surface is especially important when you use an instant drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies recommend against using any type of solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.
A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if blended at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is convenient for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to completely clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will harm the galvanizing.
Improved Masonry Primers
Be it inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out over time, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually water, must be fixed for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 3 months before you prime and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it can be painted on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is basically coloured mortar and packed with lime, is a great surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also has a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's provided for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coating, but it is important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I've had success adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for many masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only procedure to speed up the curing time of concrete. You could still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another container of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches skin!) Etching takes a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, in particular when you mix the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. If you add drinking water to acid it'll splash and burn anything it contacts. And combine it in the correct ratio, usually one to three. Be sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling cement floors can be a chore. It's best to keep them well looked after and recoat them regularly, before they have to be completely redone. Concrete surfaces in really sad shape should be sandblasted, or you can use a new system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry a lttle bit easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good shape, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new cement floors, I would recommend a cement stain created by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My preference is water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Cement stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top coating like latex.
Older, pre-painted concrete floors have to be repainted with a similar top layer, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coating is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also works well. An oil-based top coat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.
Sound Quality Painting
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens WA 98258
(425) 512-7400
Painting Contractors Lake Stevens
Exterior Painters Lake Stevens
Interior Painters Lake Stevens
Painting Services Lake Stevens
Exterior House Painters Lake Stevens
Exterior Painting Lake Stevens
Interior Painting Lake Stevens
